In France, Sainte Maure is a classic raw milk Loire Valley chèvre in the shape of a small log with a stick of straw running through its middle. If you were to aim an arrow at the dead-center of the rough, hexagonal shape that defines France, it would land in the goat fields around the Loire river in the west. Sainte Maure, Selles-sur-Cher, and Valençay are all made from the goat's milk of the region, and all of them are shaped as if for a geometry lesson. These small pasteurized truncated logs, pyramids, cylinders and discs that are produced for export to America are received into the caves young, fresh, and wet. They emerge drier, denser and with a fine grey-blue coat of edible mold. Their flavors remain young and slightly acidic, but are buttery and smooth. The Sainte Maure is a lovely companion to Fumé Blanc, Sauvignon Blanc, Sancerre, and many other white wines. One piece weighs approximately 10 ounces.